Saturday 10 October 2020

Little Rides (during the pandemic)

 We had planned a couple of big rides for this year but travel restrictions due to covid 19 has forced us to postpone them until the world is a little less unsettled. We've kept fit on the spin bikes during total lockdown here in France and, later in the summer, enjoyed some short rides. This is one of the more interesting: (Ed.)

Ride along the river Lot.    September 2020

As with many of our rides, long and short, the inspiration for them appears out of the ether. In this case, it was the ether of Hans’ campsite. During a recent visit to Coursavy in September, we were discussing with Hans his up coming cycle tour into the Pyrenees. For reasons, which still elude me, he suggested that we join him for the first few days. Did he realise how slowly we rode? Protest, it seemed was a waste of energy as he acceded to our request that he would have to pedal more conservatively or risk riding alone. Thus, in principle, we agreed and the practical details would be worked on.

For those of our readers who are unacquainted with our friend Hans, allow me to introduce the man. He is the ever resourceful owner of camping Coursavy who is also an all round cyclist with bikes for every occasion – racing, mountain riding, and touring. He is also fit and a decade younger than we are, so you may understand our reluctance to accompany him on any ride! Nonetheless that is what we did.

A couple of weeks later on Monday the 22nd September, we arrived in Cajarc by car with two touring bikes on the back plus appropriate bits and bobs in panniers and Hans arrived by bicycle from home with a lot more bits and bobs and full camping gear. Not so Old Bones, we were booked into the local hotel for bed and breakfast! Under our bemused gaze, Hans erected his very expensive tent and organised his campsite. We wandered back to luxury, took the bikes off the car and unloaded the panniers, having agreed to meet later to find a suitable eatery for the evening.

Despite my grumbling reluctance, we ensconced ourselves in the local pizzeria where, it has to be said, the pizzas were excellent. I chanced to be paying our bill at the same time as the group who had been sharing our verandah (a noisy bunch it has to be said). The survey of a cave system on the back of their T shirts proclaimed them as cavers exploring locally. I mentioned in passing that in the dim and distant past, we had explored caves in South Wales amongst others. This throwaway comment was noted by our host and as I returned to our table we were treated to a rendition of the Welsh National anthem over the tannoy! Where did he get that from?!

Tuesday 23.09.2020



We should have expected that any ride with Hans would be unconventional and we were not to be disappointed. The rain was pouring down as we ran for breakfast, for which we do not hold Hans responsible, but we do hold him responsible for virtually everything which followed! Delay and hope the rain passed, as it was forecast to do by 10.00, was not an option so we loaded wet bikes with wet panniers and felt the water dripping down necks! Seemingly confident, Hans led the way along the river in the now fine weather (it was now nearly 10.00). Confronted by very substantial looking gates, our way forward was unclear. It was true that a very narrow path ran outside the gates along the fence line.  This in turn led to what can only be described as little short of a cliff-face. Not only was the way on very, very steep and definitely unrideable, it was also very, very wet and very, very slippery. Sensible folk would have back tracked! But nooo……. Not us. We pushed the lightest bike up first. A more accurate description of our ascent would be a scrabble assisted by hanging onto a metal fence. Sadly the metal fence ran out halfway up and underfoot turned into a muddy quagmire adding to the scrabbling element. The second bike followed in similar fashion. The third, which belonged to Hans and was by far the heaviest was viewed with even greater misgivings than the previous two. It has to be mentioned at this point that we were following the Pilgrim Route to Compostelle (for walkers) and Alan had already fallen foul of a lady, probably a nun, by using appropriate but inappropriate international expletives. However, the next three pilgrims were sturdy chaps, who once  recovered from their mirth, assisted the final push and we all arrived on the roadside. We had completed just over 1 km in an hour! The road would have taken about ten minutes!  And we had probably depleted much of our energy resources for the day! Possibly not Hans!

The weather remained fine and we enjoyed some excellent cycling and views of the gorge and the river. We also maintained a reasonable speed and did not suffer the indignity of watching Hans disappear into the distance. By mid-afternoon we had enjoyed a coffee stop and a leisurely lunch/ sandwich stop on the banks of the river while we worked out a route which avoided the drilling on the cliffs that was going on along the cycle route.  We had covered a commendable distance of some 80 kilometres when the sunshine faded, black clouds rolled in dumping huge raindrops. And I mean huge! Visibility reduced to the piece of road immediately in front of the wheel and we were soaked to knicker level. As we turned a corner for Prayssac the cry of ‘bus shelter’ was just audible. A roof and a seat – what luck. So three soggy souls sat and watched the road become a river. (It is at times like this, that company is so beneficial). Following a shivery twenty minutes or so, the drops were less huge and the river was going down so we remounted and continued to Prayssac for about 400mtres! We had seen the route barre sign but on a bike it is usually easy to get around. BUT not with Mr. Health and Safety in charge.  MUCH too dangerous to negotiate  the large machines and sloppy road surface but the diversion was only an extera 500m . Mmmm…… Tell that to three very wet and tired cyclists. We meekly turned round and followed the diversion.



At this point Old Bones were looking forward to a pre-booked B&B. Hans was looking (not forward) to a cold and wet night under canvass! Would there be a vacancy for a third person in the B&B?! There was. And so after 95 kms we three dismounted in a heap on sodden  clothing deposited on the floor of the garage which was complete with drying machine and hanging space. How good was that. In little more than our underwear, we climbed the stairs to the main house and a very welcome beer.

We had all been keeping a keen eye on the weather forecast which was less than encouraging. Wet and cold on a bike is not fun despite what some may say and so the forecast for Friday, which was abysmal, was causing some concern.  Wednesday’s ride was expected to be well over 100kms which would make our return to Cajarc on Thursday and Friday some 200 kms in very inclement conditions. So we hatched a cunning plan. We would ride with Hans for 40 to 50 kms then return to Prayssac and our delightful B&B while he would continue south and thus we could avoid a Friday ride of around 100 kms in the lashing rain and wind!

It worked perfectly and, although the weather was less horrible than expected, the slightly more leisurely pace allowed us to take in more of the picturesque countryside than on the way out. In fact, the route that Alan’s Gpx file followed was quite unlike the one we had followed with Hans and we found ourselves on fewer roads and more numerous greenways. A bit further but certainly more relaxing .

We spent Thursday night in Cahors, a famous and beautiful city; a place that one would expect to house a plethora of hotels. It did. However, the one that Al had earmarked for our overnight was unsuitable. As ever, we needed a secure space for the bikes. The reception I received was desultory at best and rude at worst. Despite having numerous outbuildings, this hotel had no room for two bikes except in the car park! Over the years and kilometres we have travelled, it is often the larger towns which are the least accommodating. We did, however, locate a bike friendly hostel  just a few minutes walk from the bustling commercial and restaurant centre. Still busy despite covid.



Continuing our return to the car the following day, we took care to avoid the steep incline (decline) of our first day and stuck with the descent of the road into Cajarc. The weather forecast had been a little ambitious is its forecasting of unremitting rain and wind for Friday and although it was wettish, the wind was behind us for most of the twisting and turning of the route along the river. Still, better to err on the side of caution as we approach old age.



We had enjoyed our little excursion and as the weather continued to deteriorate over the next week(s) we felt that our decision to curtail our journey (we had planned a route through Bordeaux and home) was probably a wise one if a bit disappointing. Hans, on the other hand, had planned to be away for some three weeks. After two further days he was not responding to his phone (it had unsurprisingly died a death from wetness) and we were anxious as to where he was. It transpired that he had spent time in the hospital with a suspected heart attack! Thankfully, it turned out to be a serious urinary infection which was masquerading as a heart condition. It is likely that the weather conditions rendered a pleasant cycling holiday null and void and a return home for him was the best option. A little less angst would not have gone amiss though!

Never let it be said that our excursion are uneventful!  Indeed, it is the uncertainty and unfolding of events that provide the on going fascination of our rides. We continue to meet so many different people and experience vast ranges of environments, not all pleasant and many very challenging, but ultimately, all of them enriching our lives. It is all such fun and long may it continue! We consider ourselves very privileged and fortunate to enjoy good health and quality bikes!



Thursday 10 October 2019


Wednesday 2nd October 2019
Xanten – Wolfheze    Holland
88kms
I signed off the blog yesterday in the expectation that the final 68!? Kms would be without incident, merely a formality in reaching our destination. How fickle is fate?
We woke to the clanking of scaffolding being erected on the building next door to our hotel ( a very noisy operation) BUT the sun was shining. Al had mentioned quite casually, that winds today would be blowing from the north but not to worry they were not expected to be very strong. WRONG! We were to battle with a nostril wind gusting at up to 30 or 40 mph and consistently whooshing at about 20. This was unpleasant and very hard work – a bit like riding through treacle. As if the winds were not bad enough, some joker had decided to dig up a vital part of our route with scant mention of a 7kms detour – the second of the day! Lunch time was spent catching fleeing bun bags as the wind strength continued to rise.
Undaunted (well, maybe a bit), we arrived at the first ferry of the day and a piece of good luck. We would only have to wait for 30 minutes instead of the 2 hours we would have had to wait had we arrived just 31 minutes later. (Winter timetable – they all seem to start in October) Be vigilant. A second ferry crossing, this time a continuous toing and froing, and we reached Arnhem and faced the usual dilemma of which of the five or six roads we should take at the junction. Al’s machine and the wind direction concurred and we headed north.
Now, along with many folk, we had been led to believe that Holland was a flat land except (yes, you have guessed it) for Arnhem! Not big hills but after 75 kms of a gruelling ride we had to call on our rapidly reducing reserves and , with some considerable relief, found signs for Wolfheze.  An hour later and 20 or so kms longer than we planned, we were welcomed by the guardian of the camp site and collapsed into the chalet of friends where we planned to take a day off and leave the bikes.
NB.  As points of interest go on this journey, none was more obscure than the nuclear power station that was built and never commissioned as a result of the Chernoble  disaster. Built at great cost, it is now a theme park sporting many attractions but shut at the time of our passing. Enterprising though.

We have now really done with our ride down the river Rhine. It has proved to be one of our favourite routes with a huge variety of urban and rural scenery. The GPX files have been excellent as an accurate and comprehensive source of route finding even though it has sometimes been difficult to know exactly which country we have been in as frontiers are not even a line in the sand.( Thanks to the EU!!!) Nonetheless the differing cultures, languages, history and diets have been a constant source of education and interest. And , as ever, we have met so many lovely people. So, where next?

Rotterdam Market Hall

Tuesday 1 October 2019


Monday 30th September - Tuesday 1st October
Dormagen - Wittlaer via Dusseldorf
Wittlaer - Xanten via Duisberg
Total 120 kms

I don't know about where you are, but autumn has well and truly arrived in this part of Germany. Leaves festoon road and paths alike in a carpet of bronze and yellow. Very high winds have added twigs an even small branches to the melee.
We cut short our day yesterday. We had shared a really lovely bottle of white wine with dinner the previous evening but paid for the pleasure by experiencing a very disturbed night's sleep. So not feeling all that refreshed at the start of the ride, conditions deteriorated and our resolve with them. Very, very windy and with the river, and thus our route, continually changing direction, the gusts were wobbly strong. 
So we did the only sensible thing - found a room, bought some grub from the supermarket (no wine!) munched our way through supper and collapsed into a comatosed sleep.
There is always one shite day and this was ours.

What a difference a good night's sleep can make. Bursting with energy this morning (maybe a bit of an overstatement) we even managed and earlier than normal start. The weather was already looking ominous, as in grey and drizzly, when we set off. Ten kms or so saw us on the outskirts of Duiseberg. We knew from perusing the map that this was going to be an awkward city traverse. What we hadn't banked on was the cloudburst that had us soaked through in a matter of minutes. Really, really wet - knickers, vests, everything. Still, such is life and Wales could show Duiseberg rain a thing or two so we peddaled or puddled along.
The city was as complicated as we had expected but enlightened and enlivened by an addition to our twosome into a threesome by a meeting with Jana. This young lady was completing a year of travelling alone throughout Europe with her bike and enough luggage to sink a battleship. Riding with a chatty companion relieved the angst of the navigation and proved more than useful when we met up with two German riders coming towards us who explained through our new friend, that the bridge ahead was impassable. Clearly nothing could thwart Jana and between her and Master Navigator, we were only momentarily misplaced. 
Leaving the city behind, we were now into big sky country which was also big wind country! Jana left us after about 30 kms to cross the river and continue with her journey to see her father. It had provided an enlightening interlude and her company and conversation were much appreciated. We do wish you well, Jana.
If all goes to plan, tomorrow should see us arrive at the Chalet of Hans and Bert and the end of this ride.
I hope you have enjoyed my ramblings and look forward to your company on our next trip where ever it may be.



Sunday 29 September 2019

And he's paddling upstream!
Sunday 29th September 2019
Bad Breisig - Dormagen via Bonn and Koln
93kms (Aided by a whizzy wind for much of the ride - Hooray)

Today has been most notable for its extraordinary variety, in terms of places and weather. The first 12 kms or so completed the scenic section of this part of the Rhine. Bonn followed rapidly and we were once again admiring churches and architectural wonders while weaving our way between the weekend runners, push chairs and wanderers. It all continued for so long that I thought maybe Bonn and Koln had become conjoined twins. But not so. 
In fact, we reached Koln some twenty plus kms further along the river and if we though Bonn was crowded Koln reached new heights. Being a Sunday and with the weather set fair at that moment, most of the city seemed to have migrated to the river side. Along its banks, the markets plied their trade and the density of bodies made it impossible to make headway on the bikes, so we walked. (gave my bum time to readjust). We did get a view of the cathedral although much of it was covered in scaffolding. Must be us - the same was true of Santiago when we arrived there! 
Thus far we had enjoyed the beauty of nature, of man's ingenuity on the construction front and now we were confronted with man's ingenuity on the industrial front. For many kms the banks of the river consisted of factories of staggering proportions. I have no idea what they produced with exception of Ford (cars, I suppose). As these installations require the barges to moor alongside the river bank, we cyclists were diverted inland for some distance. 
During the day, the weather has been as variable as the scenery, one minute sunshine, then rain, then lots of wind! And to continue with the theme of variety, I got yet another puncture (no idea how) but it was in the back tyre! Need to keep Master Mechanic on his mettle! 
We had taken the precaution of booking ahead so no panic this time about finding a bed for the night.
This river is an endless source of interest - what more awaits?
Koln and a lot of industry

Friday 27 September 2019






Friday 27th - Saturday 28th September
Nierstein - Bacharach 
Bacharach - Bad Breisig via Koblenz
Total kms 164 (and the last ten nearly killed me!)

Weather was pretty grim yesterday and our start wasn't much better. Everything stopped at an horrendous main road so we knew we had missed something. After five minutes of leaving the hotel, we had been lost and found. Pleasant wander through the vineyards then along the river to Mainz. Another city of grand architecture and quite a few people! Searched out an excellent cake shop where the owner clearly felt sorry for this misfortunate foreigner who understood no German, and presented me with a present of extra cake, free. So many nice folk around. Traverse of Mainz was going really well until we were halted by a very high fence, beyond which a new huge road bridge was being constructed, and no way forward for two hapless cyclists. Never beaten for long, we found an alternative .
The scenery was changing rapidly as we entered the Rhine Gorge from flat plains to steep rock walls and vineyards clinging to the hillside. Pretty villages followed one after the other and so intrigued were we by all this, we took the wrong ferry across the river. Al was totally bemused by his magic machine having gone bonkers until we realised our error! Navigation experts! Huh!
Retired for night in another touristy village and enjoyed a supermarket meal on our medieval balcony at the top of four flights of spiral stairs! Good view though.

So on to today. It is clear why all the tourist visiting the Rhine would want to wander along this bit. It historically interesting as well as being very picturesque. As ever, many people can spoil some of the natural beauty and the particularly ugly river cruisers (my very subjective opinion) of which there are many, do nothing to enhance the river traffic. 
Koblenz with its magnificent fortified hillside town and cable car came and went as we weaved our way through the mindless throng. We passed Die Lorelei which looks like most of the cliffs along the gorge but some foresightful soul in the past has used the legend to draw in the crowds - clever stuff!
It has been a thoroughly pleasant ride, all dry and some sunshine. Met up with nostril wind towards 70kms (very bad timing) but had to keep going to avoid the overcrowding of accommodation in the honey pots. 
Lovely B&B and no crowds.



Thursday 26 September 2019



Wednesday 25th - Thursday 26th September
Drusingen - Dudenhofen
Dudenhofen - Nierstein
Total distance - 201kms

As we rode along yesterday, I was becoming increasingly concerned that there would be little to comment on. The banks (dykes)) on either side were unremittingly green with occasional glimpses of the real river and it's traffic. However, I need not have been overly concerned, as at around four in the afternoon the sh one t hit the fan. We had reached Germershein which is where we had planned to stop for the day. We found the first hotel and I found I had a flat tyre! Hid in a little corner for Al to carry out necessary tube change. Atmosphere a little testy but half an hour saw me riding again! Repair man extraordinaire.
We returned to our original intent, which was to find a bed for the night. Over an hour later we had exhausted all the options in town and took the decision to head for Lingenfeld some eight kms further on. Story was the same - all full! I had the great good fortune to receive unconditional help from a couple of youngsters in the final hotel. Sensing my anxiety ( it was now gone six and getting dark) they made copious phone  calls on my behalf, all with the same response, full! Until finally a positive response from an hotel in Dudenhofen some 18 kms further again. No option but to book the room, fix the lights to the bikes and ride like f…… By 07.30, we had taken the fastest shower ever and sat down to a meal.
Quite tired last night!!

Today, we had no intention of repeating punctures or lack of accommodation so designed a cunning plan to call ahead and book. That being the case the last 20kms were not ridden at lightning speed.
It has been a pretty gloomy day both in terms of weather (rain) and the scenery or lack of. There have been some very beautiful sights in the towns of Ludwigshafen and Worms which boast some fabulous architecture but much of our route ran next to the river. 
An interesting aspect of travelling with push bikes, is that we often see the beautiful and the not so beautiful. The latter, though, are providing the wherewithal, in order that society may function efficiently. Mind you, notices informing you that you are entering a danger zone and should the alarm sound you should move calmly away from the installation - (run like hell, more like) are a bit scary. No siren and we are still here to tell the tale but sobering nonetheless.
We are back on the banks of the Rhine now in a pretty place, looking forward to a bit more of the wet stuff tomorrow on our continuing Trek.
Viking River Cruise

Tuesday 24 September 2019

Monday 23rd  - Tuesday 24th September 2019 
Kembs - Sundhouse
Sundhouse - Drusenheim via Strasbourg
Around about 160kms
It was going to be difficult to find anything really interesting to say on the cycling front as, for the most part, on the early part of these two days, all we had seen were trees, trees, the odd bird and the canal. Actually, a "canal " might be to give it airs; it was a murky channel into which half the riverbank trees seemed to have toppled.
However, as with everyday, something occurs to make it memorable. The choice of accommodation for the night in Kembs was limited to one - a B&B with a restaurant. Grand. The room was in a badly converted attic but boasted all the essentials. Our host was full of bonhomie so any shortcomings were easily overlooked. Not wishing to scour the village for an eating place, we reserved a table in the restaurant. Whatever the room lacked, the food made up for in spades. It was exquisite. It was expensive but a real and unexpected treat. The place was Michelin starred but in such an incongruous setting, small and inconspicuous.
Still on the subject of places to stay, Al had seen mention of a gite/chalet on the canal side in Sundhouse (we are on Monday night now!) We found the chalet but no means of access so poddled off into town to see if there was an alternative. A brasserie presented itself as a possible source of information. Sitting quaffing beer were our two compatriots from several days ago! After some faffing which I won't bore you with, the proprietor of said brasserie called a friend who said she could fix us up and would collect us in a while. So we shared a beer with Sean and Dave (yes they do have names) and sure enough madam duly arrived with the inevitable "follow me". We followed her beginning to expect where we were going. Yup, back to the chalet which was excellent. Joined the chaps for evening supper and so ended another interesting, dry and warm day.
However, by today, the canal has morphed into a vast river with massive barges moving tons of coal or rubble or something similar. The bankside has provided a playground for little creatures that were either water rats or very young coipu? (really not sure of that spelling). Going has been a mix of gravel and blacktop with protruding tree roots so bottoms are a little sensitive. Combined with light rain, it was sufficient for us to take a shorter day and lay up in a hotel with a restaurant which is shut so looks like pizza again.






Sunday 22nd September 2019
Luttingen - Kembs (France)
80kms

Before I recount the activities of today, I feel obliged to comment on the accommodation we stayed in last night. We have always maintained that wherever we have stayed, in whatever country, the greeting has always been the most telling thing. The spoken language doesn't matter but the body language and the tone of the greeting, most certainly does. With a warm and genuine greeting, almost any hotel, hostel, b&b or campsite can be relied upon to provide a pleasant experience. Should you find yourself in Luttingen the Kranz hotel is the place to stay as it is a fine example of what I have just outlined.

Here we go with comments on today after a very fine breakfast. The weather continues to hold although I overdid the extra layers this morning and worked my way into a great lather by coffee stop time.
 (In all the excitement I have forgotten to mention our companion of last evening. Another cyclist, a lady, with some years of experience, who hailed from Gap and was keen to extol the virtues of mountain living. We have an open invitation to bike or ski but at a level, methinks, we would be unable to meet.)
Onward with today; the highlight, if such it could be called, was the traverse of Basel. Having visited some very pretty villages and the longest covered bridge in Europe (think that is accurate), Basel was on another planet. It also kept running further away - initially 45 kms to eventually over 60! The approach was something of a bum burner bouncing along stony and dusty tracks so when our route wound it's way up, down, through and over, we were unimpressed. Nonetheless, we did emerge the other side only  slightly bruised and battered. 
Our way now, and over the next few days appears to follow a canal and is thus expected to be flat with lots of bouncing. Extra padding required!
Not as many power assisted bikes around today, only about half of the total, but when my bum hurts and I am chewing dust, I can barely bring myself to greet these usurpers even as I acknowledge that I will no doubt join their ranks at some time in the future.
Here's to the future!

Roman amphitheatre Basel

Saturday 21 September 2019

to Lutingen


Saturday 21st September 2019
Stein am Rhein - Luttingen 
86kms

The weather has not failed us yet and, after a chilly start, temperatures were riding to 21degrees plus. My wrinkly legs are proof of this - tanned to a shorts mark! Not a pretty sight. They are still working so I am grateful.

Our route this day has been flat with some quite big bumps. An accumulation of bumps did take its toll by the end of the day. We have flip flopped between Switzerland and Germany and often the only way to establish which country, is to hop into a local supermarket where you will be obliged to pay in Euros (Germany) of francs (Switzerland). 

There have been several highlights today; the first being our third visit to Rheinfal. It is the first time that we have approached it from above and the power of the water cannot fail to inspire awe. Tis a magnificent sight and was being enjoyed by the usual crowds on land and on the water.
The second was the traverse of a large and well attended market in a village I am ashamed to say, I cannot name. We were obliged, but happy, to walk through and scan the exhibitions without injuring any small children on the way. We exited without mishap, although we had lost some time but heyho it's all part of the journey.
With perfect timing we missed a turning only to find ourselves observing a firepersons' wedding. Not sure if it was the bride or the groom who warranted the attention or maybe, it was both. There was an arch of hoses, two fully equipped fire engines with flashing lights and weewahs - hopefully no real fires in the vicinity!

A grand day and to round it off, we have been offered this magnificent suite in a local hotel instead of a bedroom and all for the same price. Might need to be a bit more mindful tomorrow. Lots of forest, lots of trees and not much accommodation.




Thursday 19 September 2019

To Londau then Stein am Rhein

Goodbye to the mountains


Lindau
Thursday 19th - Friday 20th September
Vaduz - Stein am Rhein via Lindau, Bergenz and Konstanz (among others)
160kms.

Two more glorious days of sunshine , flowers, mountains, fields, villages and rivers. Thursday's ride started with Heidi fields hugged by the mountains and full of country smells to go with the cattle and the horses. Smiles were order of the day as we passed many a young mother walking prams, presumably with small children in them, smiling quietly wondering at their luck to be living in this paradise. Returning to the river and sadly the motorway (managed to avoid actually accessing it) it was notable that the volume of water is increasing, and that the local administration is very proud of their flood prevention works. It's on lots of notices! The water has also turned beige in protest no doubt.

We were heading into tourist country as we pedalled nearer to Lake Konstanz. We had been advised that this was an area favoured by the Germans on holiday and so it proved to be! It is stunning and it is easy to understand why lots of folk would want to be there - would just have preferred not quite so many!! Truly hundreds of visitors on bikes! Whoever thought of the electric bike must be a millionaire many times over. The riders now come in all shapes and sizes and with varying degrees of competence. There is no code of behaviour - you just wheely along oblivious of other track users and do your best to stay upright! Remarkably everyone seemed to avoid tragedy. It is notable that more than 80% of cycles were power assisted. Not quite sure how I feel about it all.

Leaving the heavy traffic behind, we followed the lake side for much of today passing through a number of old villages. Many have tried to maintain, at least some of the old and original buildings but it is also true that much is being built to feed the rich housing market. It is hard to imagine such a large continuous area of opulence anywhere in the UK surrounded by hills and lakes. Fair takes your breath away.

As ever, it is the people who inspire us, not always in a positive way as Al can vouch for after a short altercation with a minibus driver on a cycle track! There is little in the way of greeting other riders but hosts in the guest houses have, without exception, been charming. We will continue with our hellos and happy greetings and so onward with our trip.
Ferry to Kontanz


Stein am Rhein